Refinishing Kitchen Cabinets
Hello Do It Yourself Friends! Before we dive into out step by step guide, here are some points for you to consider before you begin the Refinishing or Repainting Cabinets project you’ve decided on. Before you begin any painting project, be sure to read my helpful tips, and links to products, to make the job smoother, your results FABULOUS, while containing the cost.
Done correctly, a cabinet “job” can entirely remake the look of your kitchen, and done properly, cut the cost of redoing that major room in your home to a FRACTION of what remodeling, resurfacing, or refacing (those two terms really mean the same thing) your cabinets can cost.
Before I begin the step by step project guide for refinishing your cabinets, here are some terms that you will like knowing, facts you will need, and tips to help you on your pathway to beautifying your cabinets.
1) Refacing is changing the doors, and applying a thin veneer to the old, visible parts
Of the “box” BOX is the contractor/builder term used for the cabinet itself with
No doors or shelves.
2) Resurfacing is the SAME AS refacing
3) Re painting or re staining is the cleaning, sanding, removal of doors; then the
- Oil based paints don’t leave brush strokes like latex paints do, and they cover stains very well. However, oil based white paints are likely to yellow with age.
- Paint additives like Flotrol can reduce brush strokes in latex paints. For more information on this handy additive, copy and paste the following into you search engine:
The article goes a bit in depth regarding thinning paint for use in a paint sprayer, but the product is easy and effective when added to paint you apply by hand.
- Oil based paint may peel off eventually. But in places where you want a great surface for cleaning, is the best performer.
- Read the label of the bonding agent carefully. A bonding agent is also called a primer. Check to see if it will bond latex to oil.
- Consider a marine varnish which is more water repellent than traditional, so when you are planning to redo either kitchen or bathroom cabinetry, go in this direction.
FINISHES – Paints and varnishes/polyurethanes come in different finishes. For paints, look for:
- Flat – this is not a good finish for a room where you will want to wipe dirt off the painted surface, as the name implies, it is not shiny at all
- Eggshell – a bit more desirable as far as ongoing ease to clean, it also has a bit more of a shine. Still not shiny enough for my eye yet however.
- Semi gloss – Much better finish if you need to wipe, for example near handles and knobs
- Gloss – Very shiny and this will include almost all enamels.
Varnish and polyurethanes come in differing glosses or levels gloss ranging from:
- Satin - flat
- Semi gloss – kinda shiny
- Gloss – shiny
Choose a suitable brush that is recommended for the type of paint, stain, or varnish you plan to use. In general, natural bristle brushes give better results with oil-based products, while nylon or polyester brushes are good for latex based finishes. The ultra cheap foam “brushes”, though nice because you can just toss them when finished, do not work well.
YOU CAN GET DRAMATIC RESULTS! YOU CONTROL COSTS!
Refinishing kitchen cabinets is a fabulous way to give your kitchen a fresh new look, without the high price tag of new cabinetry, and a fraction of even re facing them!
As with ALL do it yourself projects, the first step is to PREPARE. Before refinishing kitchen cabinets, or any type of cabinet, thoroughly clean them. Dirt, grease and grime will prevent your paint from adhering, and stains from penetrating the wood.
STEP #1 – Assemble your materials, placing them where you will be working.
- Degreaser
- Cleaner containing solution of trisodium phosphate (TSP) or a good phosphate-free substitute. This removes dirt and grime that would keep new paint from adhering.
- Bucket, latex or other inexpensive gloves
- Hand tools such as scrapers, screw drivers, a hammer, sanding blocks, paint brushes.
- Painter’s tape (or masking tape).
- Newspapers, a drop cloth, or other material to protect adjacent surfaces while working. LOTS of newspaper.
- Paint stripper if desired. Check in the paint aisle at retailers for this. If your surface
Has been painted before, likely you will need to do this to maximize your results.
- Quality paint brushes or a sprayer suitable for the finish you plan to use
STEP #2 – Empty the cabinets.
It is much easier to clean and work with the cabinets without things knocking around inside of them.
STEP #3 - Remove hardware, shelves, and CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN.
First, remove hardware such as shelf pins (Most shelves are held up by pins that are easily removed by hand, located under the shelf. You will see them when you lift up the shelf) drawer pulls, knobs, handles and hinges These need to be cleaned with a degreaser, such as these, available at Home Depot:, and most retailers.
Following the manufacturer’s instructions, put degreaser in a bucket, and the hardware in the solution to soak. Put the doors out of the way, and placed for convenience while you clean THEM.
First, remove any surface dirt, grease, or dust using a mild cleaner suitable for wood. I recommend a product that is a solution of trisodium phosphate (TSP) or a good phosphate-free substitute.
a) Remove old finish – This step is optional if you are opting to repaint, but if you are going to stain or varnish a unit that has been painted previously, you will need to strip the paint, then sand. A chemical found in the paint section is best. Be aware that if you choose to remove an old finish/paint, it will add quite a bit of time to the project. The cabinets will need to be removed from the wall, and after stripping and filling any cracks, splits or holes, sanded smooth.
b) If are NOT removing the previous paint or finish, then after cleaning cabinets
Fill any cracks, splits or holes with wood putty. After it is dry, sand smoothly.
Step #4 – If you are painting to refinish your kitchen cabinets, prime them.
A primer will act as a bonding agent for your paint to the cabinets, and it is important to follow the manufacturer’s instructions CAREFULLY, as different finishes will require different types of prime. ALSO IMPORTANT is to paint within time frame noted by the prime’s manufacturer. They will recommend you paint within approximately an hour of the primer drying to get the best possible results. The primer will help conceal deficiencies in your cabinets, such as stains, or areas where you have wood puttied, so it is REALLY BIG STEP of your project.
Step #5 – Refinish/paint your cabinets.
You will want to apply at least two coats of your product, allowing plenty of time for the first coat to dry. Don’t try to apply a thick layer of color, it will run while drying if it does not do so immediately. NOTHING will look worse to your eye when surveying your beautiful new kitchen cabinets than a big fat drip mark!
TIP
ATTACH A “CUP SCREW” TO THE BACK OF YOUR CABINET DOORS, NEAR THE TOP BEFORE YOU PAINT OR STAIN.
HANG THE DOORS FROM A LINE, SO THEY CAN DRY VERTICALLY…THIS WILL MINIMIZE DUST AND DIRT ADHERING TO THE TACKY SURFACE WHILE THEY DRY.
THE CUP HOOKS WILL WORK ON A HANGERS BAR, THEN PUT THEM IN AN OUT OF THE WAY PLACE TO DRY.
Tags: refacing kitchen cabinets, refinishing kitchen cabinets
